Sunday, November 1, 2009

Selecting Trees

Most probably the selected tree will be between 2 and 3ft high. which is too tall for bonsai. It should be cut at about 18in. if possible, but in any case above a side branch that can later be wired into position. The tree is then ready for shaping.
The actual shape decided upon is an individual choice, but the general opinion is that it should be as natural as possible. The grotesque shapes which are often attributed to bonsai are not recommended. In fact a number of bonsai growers in this country wire trees only when absolutely essential. A tree should grow naturally and look natural. This is the secret of bonsai, and it is sometimes necessary to use wire to attain this when working with stock which is too big for natural adaptation.
Trees raised from seedlings or cuttings provide the most fascinating method of growing bonsai, but it takes a long time and considerable patience is required. Seed is sown in shallow containers, and if allowed to grow for several years undisturbed appears like a miniature forest. Seedlings or cuttings can be planted individually in thumb sized pots or in groups of three in containers of about 4in. depth and 2jin. diameter.
Plants in thumb pots should be transplanted into slightly larger pots every two or three years, and two plantings are usually sufficient before planting the dwarfed tree into its permanent container. Trees recommended for growing from seedlings or cuttings are: Japanese maple, beeches, birches, yeddo spruce, pines, and all conifers, pomegranates and many South African indigenous species.

CHOKKAN (Formal Upright)


As the name implies, this is the most formalized of all styles.The trunk must be ramrod straight and bolt upright, tapering uniformly from base to tip.
The branches should be arranged alternately either side of the trunk with every third branch to the rear. The branches should diminish in thickness and in length from the lowest one upwards, and should be either horizontal or sloping downwards.
Ideally, the spaces between the branches should also diminish toward the top of the tree, in proportion to their thickness and length.

MOYOGI (Informal Upright)


This is a variation on the formal upright style but is much easier to create. The rules for the branch structure are the same but the trunk may have any number of curves, both from left to right and from front to back.
The branches should ideally grow from the outside of the curves and never on the inside as this creates a shock to the eye. The apex should lean towards the front. The tree illustrated is just one of the many variations on the informal upright style. Unlike the Formal Upright, Moyogi works equally as well with deciduous and coniferous species.
For this style, try a Japanese maple, Trident maple, or almost any conifer and ornamental tree. You’ll have a dramatic result with a pomegranate or other flowering tree. An informal upright bonsai basically uses the same principles of the formal upright bonsai only that it is informal. The style still requires a tapered trunk, however the trunk direction and branch positioning is more informal and closer to the way a tree would look when exposed to the elements at an early age. The trunk usually takes on an unexpected curve or series of twists and the branches are thus positioned to balance this effect. As with formal upright, the crown of the tree is mainly very full with foliage and despite the informal trunk, is most always located directly above the base of the tree. This is an attribute of the informal upright style, if not done like this, the tree would be slanting.

Herbal Bonsai

Herbs offer many advantages when it comes to bonsai training. They are easy to grow, for one. Because herbs grow on a different time scale than traditional trees, a well-developed woody trunk can be grown from a small plant in a short period of time. By using the field-growing method outlined in this book, a "mature" bonsai can be created in one growing reasonless than a year and can then be maintained and refined for many years to come. And though some herbs
are hardy and can be kept outdoors year-round, most will also survive quite well indoors in a bright window. Finally, many of the best herbs, such as rosemary, seem to naturally grow in a twisted, gnarled manner that creates beautiful wild tree shapes without wiring, although wire can often be used later to refine the original shape.
Herbs are also easy to acquire. They can be propagated by seeds or cuttings. Herbs can be bought inexpensively at garden centers or from mail-order catalogs. Some of the best potential specimens may even be found in your own garden or a friend's.
The variety of scents herbs offer add new delight to growing bonsai. Trimming a rosemary plant in the house will fill a room with a pleasant fragrance. Herbal bonsai do not require time-consuming trimming. Even with relatively fast growing herbs, five or ten minutes once every month or two is enough to keep your bonsai in good shape. There's no messy pine sap to deal with or sharp needles to lose in the carpet. Best of all, the trimmings removed from each specimen can be used for cooking, brewing tea, or making potpourri. I often make herbal jellies and wines from bonsai trimmings.

Bonsai Styles

Bonsai is meant to be a representation of a tree in nature. Crafting a bonsai masterpiece is tantamount to how YOU view that tree. You are not learning from a bonsai master, you are simply being given instruction on how to create your own bonsai. What you make of it lies simply in your own mind.
There are two general styles of bonsai: the classic (koten) and the informal or 'comic' (bunjin). In the former, the trunk of the tree is wider at the base and tapers off towards the top; it is just the opposite in the 'bunjin', a style more difficult to master.
When you start a bonsai, always remember that you are working with a living plant. Look carefully at its natural characteristics and you may discern within them a suitable style, or styles.
The five basic bonsai styles are:
  • formal upright,
  • informal upright,
  • slanting (or windswept),
  • semi-cascade
  • cascade.

Art Of Bonsai

The art of bonsai has been around for years. Its culture is deeply rooted in the Asian culture and it adds not only a touch of class to your garden and home, but it also can provide a beautifully sedate focus for relaxation and meditation – right in your own home.
The Japanese believe in simplicity when it comes to aesthetics. What could be more beautiful than a simply crafted tiny version of a normal sized tree? An old Chinese proverb says “The Man Who Removes A Mountain Begins By Removing A Few Small Stones.”
This is the art of bonsai. You take a tree that is meant to grow many feet tall and allowing it only to grow a foot or two. Growing and sculpting bonsai trees can be quite a satisfying hobby. It is a hobby; however, that requires a tremendous amount of patience. When you take a simple sapling and mold it to your desire, you’ll be rewarded with a beautiful piece of art you can truly be proud of.
The evolution of bonsai over the past two centuries is truly amazing. Perhaps it is symbolic of how small the world is getting as people from Japan to the United States and even in Greenland are exploring bonsai as a hobby.